Monday, September 7, 2015

Hobbyking ECO 6-10 200W & USB data

© Hobbyking

A while back, I bought this charger. May seem a little pricy, but I wanted the more powerful discharging. More on how that bites you in the ass later (fan's loud as fuck). Anyways, there was a USB port on the side, was even labeled as USB.
While as it seems that some of the Hobbyking ECO series use this connector for UART, this one is a real USB device, a CP2102 UART to USB bridge to be precise. If the PC finds a USB device once you plug it in, you have USB version. (huh, who would've thought...)
So, we have a UART bridge connected to a charger, now what.
For starters, you need the CP210x_VCP driver. (google, there's plenty links) Once that installs, you can actually connect to it with a serial monitor, that i can personally attest. However, after 30 minutes of trying different combinations of baud rates, parity, data, stop bits and hardware flow settings and still getting garbled nonsense, I gave up. There's like, only, 2240 permutations, and that's excluding the software flow control settings...oh, and 9600 baud, 8 bits, no parity and 1 stop bit does not work btw...
Turns out, there's actually custom software that can do all the work, the downside is that it's proprietary. The charger manual actually even mentions it - EAC200.
When googled, a company named Bantam keeps popping up. They even make a charger named "eStationBC610". 6-10...where have I heard that before...when in China, expect copies of everything.
Buuuut, since I'm cheap and don't feel like paying $20 for a CD and postage, I kept on searching.
As it turns out, good people still seem to exist, there's an opensource program that can do the same - DataExplorer.
DataExplorer is Java-based, there are 32bit and 64bit versions, watch out for that, the wrong one will install fine, but won't run. From what I understand, the 32 or 64 bit should be dependent on your version of Java, but from my experience of having 64bit Windows 7 Professional with both Java versions, I needed the 64bit.
Once you install everything, you have to choose the "eStationBC610", don't worry if nothing happens even if you have the charger connected, you have to start charging/discharging for it to communicate (which is weird, since the charger is sending something through the port even when idle.)

The moment you start charging, it comes to life
1 minute 20 seconds in
10 minutes 40 seconds in

I'd call that a success, free (even open source) and it works...

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

Moar pictures of the Siemens EPD-1 guts

portion of the flat flex cable
Traces from top to bottom:
Ground (to case)
Negative power (ground)
Positive power

The lower large pad is the negative battery terminal, the upper positive. This is where I connected a Li-ion cell and the unit did something.

The weird springy sheet metal clip...thing...holds this:

Absolutely no idea WTF


The center pin of this weird thing is the unknown* trace, the case is connected to ground.

Thursday, January 22, 2015

PC watercooling loop upgrade and update

Approximately 4 months have passed and I was looking for a new job again (dear ex-employer: fuck you) so I finally had time to finalize the project to what I consider version 1.0. Well, the real reason I did it was because of this:

The glue decided to take a break

The glue in top back edge of the reservoir decided to let go, forming an approx. 5cm crack, some 0.35mm wide. Small enough to not get noticed in the case and above the still waterline, so it probably was there a while since it had no reason to leak. Because of the way the system was kludged together, some time later I had to lean the case backwards a bit to keep the pump from sucking in small bubbles. (It makes noise when that happens) The result of this was that a puddle of water began to form on the top of the reservoir and started to drip down. Luckily nothing got destroyed, the PC did however crash, which was why I was examining the insides and found a puddle of water on the bottom. Not a very pleasant feeling I tell you...
Because the loop had to be drained, (top tip: if you need to drain your loop and don't want to make a mess, use a vacuum cleaner that can deal with water) I went ahead and decided to put the L fittings in.
I also took the block apart to see how it held up.

Not so well...
At least the seal worked

The block does indeed corrode, I suspect that is because the CPU heatspreader is grounded, thus there is potential between the brass fittings (which are connected to the hose braiding and that touches the case). Anyways, there is no measurable loss of material (the bottom is still almost 2.5mm thick like it was before) and judging by the amount of oxides, I will make a new block well before the old one becomes anywhere near being eaten through.
The only downside is lost cooling potential. I am running a FX-8320e and the temperature stays around 30°C at 18°C ambient temperature while idling, at full synthetic load it fairly quickly climbs to around 38°C and stays there. After terminating the load, it quickly falls back down, indicating that the block has a fair bit of heat resistance. Hopefully a new block will fix this, but overall I am very satisfied with the performance, the true test will come when summer hits and the ambient temps rise past 35°C...

After scrubbing the oxides off, I began reassembly.
These allow the L fittings to rotate without moving the threads in the plastic
In all its glory

This time, the block is sealed by air-curing neutral silicone.
Beware that not all silicones are ph neutral, most are acidic and corrode aluminium!

Block, it's hoses and pump are in

Radiator with fans (on the inside), reservoir and more hoses added

As if failing once is not enough...

I hate acrylic/CA glue as a building material. This will get replaced in the next version.

Complete with filling solution
Additions to this version include a fillport with ball valve and a T fitting at the pump. Forgot to take pictures with the graphics card inside. Some other day...

You will need these tools to complete the build

The crapload of wrenches is necessary because of the 3 different nut sizes, the universal one is needed because of limited space between some fittings where normal wrenches simply do not fit.
Next is an hex bit with holder (screws in the CPU block), the big hex key is to screw in and tighten the stationary part of the L fittings into the block (their inside is hex shaped) as there is no other way to do so.
Teflon tape is to seal the fittings in the plastic, everything else uses squishy silicone ring seals (blue box top left-ish).
Needle-nose pliers and screwdrivers to fix the heat exchanger in place, neutral silicone to seal the block itself.
Hose with screw-on L fitting, funnels, clamps and measuring cup to fill the loop. btw the coolant now contains about 10% non-toxic anti-freeze (some weird mix of various more complex alcohols, the pure form is quite sirupy) to keep algae and other crap out. Or at least dead.

Version 2.0 will feature a better block design that uses copper in reasonable amounts (thus being cheap) and most likely a graphics card cooling solution. I'm still toying with the idea of making the CPU cooling direct (water directly on the heatspreader), as it would drastically improve the thermal resistance problem and make the thing smaller.

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

PC watercooling loop

Been putting this off for a very long time (taking photos requires partial computer disassembly), so I'll just post a few previews...
Leak test

Top left - heat exchanger (mostly called "radiator" even though the primary method of heat transfer is convection into flowing air, radiation is negligible at these temperatures), the Alphacool NexXxoS Xtreme II rev2. This is the single most expensive component of the build, closely followed by the pump. At 395 x 120 x 45 mm it fits 2 120mm fans (not pictured), in my case Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 CO PWM. Fairly cheap, yet they have 2 ball bearings, PWM and decent power (for the price). 6W at full power may not seem much, but a lot of the more expensive fans are even wimpier.
I have however found out that these fans seem to stall (increasing RPM doesn't increase airflow) when running over 40% PWM, they clearly were designed for free-flow operation, not to be mounted directly on the heat exchanger. One day I might get annoyed enough about this to go crazy and buy a pair of Deltas, since they have 120mm models with PWM and guide vanes (can create more pressure, downside is noise and manufacturing cost), but at the moment I can't justify spending over $80 on 2 fans, no matter how ridiculously overpowered they are...
Middle-ish left - the CPU block.
Middle-ish right - the reservoir/expansion tank. It's made from acrylic sheet (which is probably older then I am) bonded with CA glue. In/out ports are threaded brass, the input one is a flange nut that has been sanded flat, glued with CA to wall (which already had a hole in it) and after the glue set, I secured it with an acrylic plate that had a hexagon cut into it (prevents the nut from exerting shear forces onto the glued surfaces). The output is a threaded stub and a flange nut is holding it in place. So much CA glue was used to make sure it's not going anywhere. The output also has a...thing...on the inside to keep it from picking up air, it looks like a scoop.
The tank is has a baffle in the middle, it's intended purpose is to give bubbles more time to rise to the surface and not be sucked in by the pump. Secondary and unintended effects is a nice wave indicating flow.
Upper right - An Eheim 1048 bought waaaaay back (today I would have gone for a 12V powered pump) in ~2005. While it has nice ceramic bearings - picture a white smooth ceramic shaft that goes into a smooth ceramic tube of matching diameter, almost loose fit (slides freely but no perceptible play) - it's still a synchronous motor and as such, it can (and will!) spin in either way, depending on when (AC phase) you turn it on, which means the impeller has to have straight instead of nicely curved blades and can (deliberately) freely rotate some 60° in relation to the magnet. The end result of these features is not-so-unnoticeable AC hum from the coils and if air bubbles manage to get in the pump, you get horrible rattling and clackety noises, which subside only after the air is expelled out. The pump cannot to this on it's own, so it has to be re-started, usually a couple of times. Once this is done and it's snugly fit in it's foam vibration dampener, the fans (or magnetic HDDs) are louder then the pump.
As you can probably see, I tried my best to avoid galvanic corrosion as much as possible, the only critical place is the pump output fitting, as it's made out of steel, not nickel-plated brass like the nut on pipe is. In case you are wondering why, it's a fitting made for hydraulics, nobody seems to be making a G 1/4 male to G 3/8 male fittings out of brass in this country. I have coated the inside of the fitting with a resin-based lacquer, but I fear this may not be enough.
One other possible place might be the radiator, as it's not clear what it's actually made out of, flanges seem to be brass, but the tubes are supposed to be copper. Also, they are soldered/brazed (more different metals).
We will see how it held up as I will be doing scheduled maintenance in the near future, main reason being I need to add L-fittings to nearly everything in order for it to fit in the case the way I want, not the way the minimum bend radius of the pipes will allow me. Other items to be added is a drain and fill valve, because attempting to fill (or drain) the system without them is a pain in the butt I wish to never have to experience again.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Converting a dual rail PSU into a single rail

Needed a 12V/2A peak power supply for a TV/monitor made out of junk (more on that some other day, if I ever get myself into finishing it), but didn't have one particularly like that, nor did I want to buy a new one. When I searched the junk pile, I found one of those IDE HDD to USB converters.
Like this one
The set has been long junked, but the PSU still worked. The problem however was, that it's designed to supply 12V/2A and 5V/2A at the same time. This means that the stabilization is referenced off of both rails, and generally will not be very happy if you try to fully load just one.
In my case, the load is a LVDS panel signal converter (and a TFT  LCD panel with it's backlight module). Once everything was stable and running, the PSU could crank enough juice and keep the voltage high enough that the converter logic didn't complain. But when starting, the current draw peaked at 2A and the logic kept shutting down, because the voltage dropped below 11,5V. (Not sure why that mattered, since all of it's internal power supplies need less then that)

So, surgery time...

Red lettering notes what was added (it should be pretty obvious that a few parts have been removed prior to that).
A) is the new voltage divider, consisting of a 3k9 and 1k resistor.
B) is an additional low ESR capacitor, 1mF/25V (unncessarily too much, but it's what I had on in the junk pile)
C) is a 10µF tantalum cap, needed to keep the TL431 out of it's unstable region
D) TL431, scrapped from the same dead PSU as the cap in B)
E) a new 150Ω resistor (instead of 100Ω from previously) for the optotron (no idea what it, just assumed a 4N35 knock off, which it apparently isn't*)

*With a 3k9 and 1k resitor divider and a TL431 voltage reference (2,5V) the formula Vout=(R1/R2+1)*Vref yields should yield 12,25V.

A-PSU;B-current(x10 in mA);C-voltage;D-30A/300mV shunt;E-bigass rheostats as load (yes, a rheostat, you read that right)

Seems that the mystery optocoupler is somewhat different from a 4N35 which I assumed it would be. But we are still within margin.
The powersupply is surprisingly well built (considering that the entire set of the converter cost the equivalent of $20, with import fees, taxes and all that crap),  the main transitor is a  STP4NC60FP (not sure if real or knockoff) and the primary and secondary sides are well separated. Eve the filtration caps don't seem like the cheapest crap that's out there.
The primary side of the power supply looks very similar to this one. The secondary side (now) looks somewhat like this. The resitor divider is obviously different and there is a 10µF bipolar cap connected to the cathode and anode of the T431. If you leave this out, the TL431 will enter an unstable region (fig. 15 on page 7) and start to oscillate, since the LED in the optocoupler has capacitance.
In my case, that causes an audible whine of the power supply from no to full load, and quite notable voltage ripple (no footage, sry). With the cap it oscillates only when the load drops below approx. 120mA (even then the ripple is smaller and barely audible), which will not be a problem, since when on, the TV draws about 1A, and when on stand-by it will not mind the increased ripple.

Edit: I fucked up and read the theory wrong, the cap is supposed to be between the reference and ground (close to the anode). Once there, the PSU exhibits similar ripple behavior with the exception of audible noise - there is none whatsoever, regardless of the load.

Running with a 1A load
Relaxation oscillation with approx. 90mA load

Sorry for the crappiness of the footage (and lack of grid or frequency, the scope is from the 60s...EMP resistance comes at a cost :D), but hopefully it's clear what goes on in the power supply.

Wednesday, June 25, 2014

DIY PC watercooling block done differently

This is one of those on-off projects that I am dragging maybe 6 years, because I don't have this, can't afford that, buy a "new" computer making the previous block incompatible, want to do it differently...

This time, I decided to try a rather novel approach to a low-cost DIY CPU block, where the most expensive tool being used was a drill press. (can be done even without it)
Most amateur blocks are the sandwitch type, 2 thick pieces of metal, one thick and one thin or a thick piece of metal and thick piece of plastic.
My construction is of the last type, using 10mm (10.2mm) aluminium, but the top where the hoses are connected to is made from 10mm LDPE. For some weird reason, a lot of people go for acrylic, which from my personal failures in attempts of this construction I can say is the worst possible choice one can make.
Here's why - 1) its brittle (tapping this is not for the fainthearted) 2) it's not particularly strong, this coupled with the brittleness means it's very easy chip/crack during drilling 3) it's fairly expensive 4) hard to come by in small, but thick pieces.

So why did I choose LDPE? 1) you can buy 10mm boards dirt cheap, search for "cutting boards". They can be had even thicker, but the price starts to take off quite rapidly after the 10mm mark. 2) availability. These cutting boards can be bought even in convenience stores, online stores have them in truckloads and keep trying to undercut each other on the price, bringing us back to n.1 3) while being quite tough, it's also soft. My construction doesn't use a seal, the screws squash it against the metal so well it doesn't leak. Also, machining it much easier, all you have to do is keep the tools sharp.

Metal time!

68x76mm aluminium block
(yup, it's AM2, 2+ and 3 compatible)

some more aluminium

As you can see, the block is mabe by drilling a bazilion holes (OK, more like 42 + 16 small ones for the fasteners) , first with an approx. 5mm drill, then the final 8mm. The remaining "islands" were twisted/torn off with pliers. So ghetto. Final cleanup is done by a "large" oblong mill for a Dremel-like tool.
If you don't have one, get one, you'll love it.

Awesomeness right here
The center is carefully cut down to just 2mm for optimal thermal conductivity/strength ratio(too thick doesn't cool that well, too thin could get warped by the clamping force). Somehow I also managed to tap all 16 of the M3 threads without stripping the thread or breaking the tap.

This is how the block sat for 2 years. Then I had a brainwave with the LDPE cutting boards and bought one as building material and one as an actual cutting board. And two G 3/8 set taps. And a 14,9mm drill bit, which turned out to be useless. (most drill chucks, including the one on my drill are smaller)
Along with the the LDPE idea, I also thought about the hoses. Turns out that you can buy a 50cm piece of 14x8mm steel braided rubber hose, with crimped-on G 3/8 male and female fittings on each side, all for the equiv. of $3.2 (exchange to $ on 25.6. 2014). 30 and 40 cm pieces cost a few cents less.

mmmm, braiding....

Yes, they are meant for water appliances, not PC cooling, but for the cost of  1 stainless steel fitting* that was made for PC cooling, you can get:
- a nice hose with all the fittings (crimped!), which are nickel-plated brass (more on that later*)
- a brass G 3/8 to 1/4 adapter (PC radiators seem to come only in G 1/4)
- a piece of teflon tape to make sure it doesn't leak.
Technically you can go nuts and have the hoses made with G 1/4, but the quote I was given (by a small company specialising in hydraulics, they have the crimp tool) was 3x as much, so I opted for pre-made with adapters.

Now, as for the * - if you google galvanic corrosion, you will quickly find that using stainless for water cooling is a dumb idea.
1st up, pretty much all types of stainless steels are quite far away (corrosion WILL** occur) from copper, 2nd stainless is the cathodic one, meaning copper (of which the expensive radiator thatIcan't(yet)fabricatemyselfsoIhavetobuyit is made of) is the one that is going to be eaten.
**For galvanic corrosion to occur, you need: 1) dissimilar metals (got that) 2) electrolyte (watercooling) 3) conductive contact. So, using stainless on your shiny new copper rad that costs as much as 4gb of RAM is a no-no.
As for bare or nickel-plated brass - they are practically next to each other in the relative electronegativity, so corrosion will be minimal.
But what about the aluminium block, whose electronegativity is on the other side of the chart (copper, brass and nickel are somewhat in the middle)? Well, for one aluminium is the anodic one (so IT gets eaten, not the expensive stuff), second - no contact. The LDPE block which holds the hoses is keeping them well away from ever touching the block, and if I ever get to actually mounting the system, the rad will not be directly touching the case.

So, enough bullshit, how does it look?

Not too bad given the cost is less then the cheapest of Chinese of waterblocks on ebay

Plenty of more room for even bigger ones :D

Crap picture n1
(camera seems to like the floor instead of my waterblock)

Crap picture n2
Last but not least, lapping the contact surface is usually a good idea, so here's the result of 2 hours of wet sanding, from 80 to 800 grit.


Performance data and more pictures will come if I ever kick myself into making a reservoir that doesn't suck or leak.

Butchering it apart

I've been putting it off forever, no more excuses.
So, let us begin:
Dissection in progress
Took a picture of both sides of the PCB, printed them out, stuck the paper onto a piece of cardboard and smeared the top with office glue-in-a-stick. I used this to practice hot air work, carefully removing each component at a time, "dipping" (more like touching) the leads in the glue stick and putting them onto their respective places. A rather time and patience consuming process.

Back side done
Then, after all the parts were removed the board was cleaned off, first nearly all the solder with a copper wick, then technical ethanol.

(and yes, it's a bmp)

Backside of the FET preamp

Unfortunately, the free autotrace SW for Windows (haven't tried the Linux ones) failed miserably, the pictures just weren't good enough. So I converted the images to bmp and traced them "by hand".

Several hours later:


 The blue dots are vias. Without too much searching, you can find several that seem to go nowhere, meaning the board is more then 2-sided. Fuck.
While it is possible to carefully sand it down taking pictures every now and then, I am not that patient to do it.
Vectorized and superimposed
(back is blue, front is red)

The leads that go out of the picture are the flex cables that are...glued? the PCB directly, the ones on the left go to the LCD, the ones on the right come from the battery terminal.
If you feel you must have the infini-resolution vectorized version, email me. But before you do, be warned that some traces might be broken.